L ascorbic acid serum

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VITAMIN C | L-Ascorbic Acid or Derivatives | What's Best? | Vivienne Fung

2 487 views | 2 Jul. 2019

Unstable Vitamin C

Unstable Vitamin C L-Ascorbic Acid:

The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23%


The Inkey List Vitamin C


More Stable Vitamin C Derivatives:

Neogen Real Vita C Serum


Korres Wild Rose 15% Vitamin C


Hylamide C25 Booster (Quite strong yet not as effective)

This is a L-Ascorbic Acid good for daytime use

Skinceuticals C E Ferulic


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Adriana Lopez

Can you do a morning routine and a night routine:)

K_ 77

Where is your blouse from? It’s really pretty!

Ana Helena Teixeira

Hi Vivienne! I love your videos, especially the one where you talk about rosacea... It has helped me A LOT! ❤️
So... I was wondering if someone like me, with very sensitive skin and rosacea with papules, can use any of those kinds of vitamin C?
Thanks ???

Adriana Lopez

I love your videos... for how long should i wear vitamins c L-ascorbic, and when is the best season to wear it?

Andrea C

Have you tried the Ti'am vit c serum and red serum?

Joana Remine

You do look amazing ?


I love your video. You have such a beautiful skin. Can you do a video on how to get rid of melasma?


Thoughts on The Ordinary L-Ascorbic powder?

Lavinia Negru

You look ...AMAZING ?....your skin is glowing and you seem to age in reverse.

Mimi Ramone

Informative video on vit. C. M It’s a skincare routine must! Also good to use extra sunblock with vitamin C makes skin sensitive to sun. Mixing C with retinoids cancels each other out also, I use in the am. Revision Vit C 15% & I-I-Image vit C. Serum are nice. Considering a Vit C Showerhead. Have you heard what about these?

RufaReed Lifestyle

I hope you will do skincare morning routine how to apply how to use it properly.

Jenni Schipper

Awesome thank you for all the information. What do you think about the drunk elephant vitamin C serum?

Latifah Abufarha


RufaReed Lifestyle

Step by step guide how to apply your skin care products in day and night
I would like to use the product to get rid of Whiteheads,

L ascorbic acid serum

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Skincare Ingredient Spotlight- ?? Vitamin C & L-Ascorbic Acid Derivatives & Product Recommendations

7 837 views | 30 Aug. 2020

Vitamin C Ingredient

Vitamin C Ingredient Discussion- Derivatives, and Product Favorites

Vitamin C is an antioxidant, meaning that it will prevent and remove free radicals from the skin. This is important, as these cells are damaged, often from pollution, and can age your skin by breaking down skin collagen.

Studies on Topical Use of Vitamin C:



These vitamin C products have the capability to increase collagen production, help PIH, and treat acne. It is an active, and while it does provide UV protection by protecting the skin from the above mentioned free radicals, it is important to use it alongside sunscreen.

L-Ascorbic Acid (L-AA)

3-O ethyl ascorbic acid (EAC)

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)

Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP)

Ascorbyl Tetra-tetraisopalmitoyl (ATIP) (also known as Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate)

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)

Ascorbyl Glucoside (AG)

Other beneficial forms that have notable research demonstrating their efficacy include sodium ascorbyl phosphate (6), ascorbyl palmitate (7), 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid (8), tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (9), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (1), and ascorbyl glucoside (2).

L-Ascorbic Acid-

This is generally the preferred version of vitamin C because of the amount of collagen production and UV protection it provides. It requires a low pH (under approximately 3.3) and that can cause skin irritation for some people. L-AA is also notoriously unstable and prone to oxidation when used in liquid based solutions, and is extremely sensitive to air and light. It has the most skin-related research of any form of vitamin C. When properly formulated it can help firm skin and help even skin tone. Ascorbic acid also helps skin defend itself from free radicals and external stressors. Ideally used in the morning, but you can also use it in the evening.

PRO- effective, affordable, studies prove efficacy

CON- non-stable, oxidizes rapidly when exposed to air

Ex. Timeless, Wishtrend, Dr Brenner,

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)

SAP is a promising derivative that has great stability up to pH 7, but it is not absorbed easily. Compared to LAA, SAP is poorly absorbed into the skin. It is thought that it functions as an antioxidant and is potentially effective for brightening an uneven skin tone. There are also some studies that show SAP can help prevent, treat, and heal acne. A 2005 study showed in vitro (in test tubes) that 1% SAP has a strong antimicrobial activity on evil acne causing P. acnes and it also showed in vivo (on real people) that 5% SAP can strongly improve the inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions of acne vulgaris. In fact, the results were comparable or even slightly better than with 5% benzoyl peroxide.

PRO- might be an effective acne treatment, rather stable, helps with brightening

CON- only a small amount of SAP is absorbed by the skin.

Ex. The Inkey List C 50 Blemish Treatment, Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum, U Beauty Resurfacing Compound, Revolution Skincare Dark Spot Corrector

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Since so many of you asked for it, here is a link to my favorite PH testing strips



Haha looks like me play with all the products I’ve gotten in subscription boxes. Except mine are all the mini sizes and I don’t know all the info....but that’s why I’m here I suppose.

Rebe Ch

Hello, can you make a video for the dark spot corrector from skin revolucion.. I just got it, because my hyperpigmentation issues.. Thanks for your honest reviews.. You've helped me a lot!!

Judi Beth

I’m trying out a vitamin C from Truth Treatments...very expensive and I’m not noticing any results. I’m not sure what type of vitamin C it is. Have you heard of it? Love this video...thanks ?

Jennifer Maldonado

My fave Vitamin C’s are the Timeless Ferulic acid & vitamin e one, the BioBare Ferulic acid & vitamin e, which you have to try it I think you will love it as much as I do. It’s very similar to the Timeless one just maybe a tad bit thicker but barley. It’s about dbl the price of the Timeless one but it’s so good. I also like the Good Skin Vitamin C serum from Soko Glam, it’s only 10% but so gentle yet effective. ? I gotta try the Dr Bromers one I keep forgetting. I refuse to use the Ole Henriksen one, the Glow Recipe , and even the Farmacy one they are just too expensive and not better than the Ones I use. Dermadoctor is ok just too expensive for what it is which is mostly Vitamin C esthers and according to dermatologist they aren’t worth using. ?? Thanks for the video Sarah.

Kim B

Sarah. Great video. Love this info you’ve delved into. What’s next?

Jhennipher Barbara

im so eeearly today ?

Tristine Wenker

Neutrogena came out with a 20% l ascorbic acid in capsules

yael marganit

Hey Sarah, what a great video this is!
So informative..
Can you please make a video about antioxidants that are not vitamin c?
There are so many, especially in K beauty, it would be great to have some info about which have proven evidence etc.
Anyway, your videos are always a pleasure!


I have been enjoying your reviews! You mention the EAC is good for brightening and hyperpigmentation. In your research, did you also find its effects of collagen? I am looking for a good anti-aging vitamin c for the effects on collagen. Hyperpigmentation is a non-issue for me at the moment. Would you conclude EAC is also good for collagen? Or was that inconclusive

Roser - Prutti Sara

Oh yes. Please do a PH Test Video ? thanks ??


The "evil acne-causing bacteria" part was kinda random and made me laugh?


Hi, I found your channel
in search and I really enjoyed watching this video. I'm following this channel
to see your journey and I can't wait to see your next videos :-)

Aska Lemuralia

Such an amazing video! Thank you! I have tried the MAP ordinary, loved it, but used it up so quickly and I actually didn't SEE any effect. Afterwards I finally got my hands on the Timeless, have been using it ever since and... The truth is I love it, it works visibly on scars and overall brightening (I always get compliments!) However I have a vague feeling that it had made my sunspot damage more prominent and that depending on my skin it can be too stripping, leaving the skin a bit tight. My guess is I should keep using Timeless on my T zone (which is scarred and oily) but for my cheeks with the sun damage I urgently need something else? Which one should I go for? Also, is it wise to apply two different ones like that?

Freedom Life

I also noticed Ascorbyl Glucoside is the most commonly used derivative used


DRUNK ? c serum does NOTHING! It's tacky feeling...

Krypton Quero

Please make another live! We want to chitchat with you about skincare and everything! ?

Lisa H

PTR's Potent-C Power Serum is my go to. Wish it wasn't so doggone spendy!

Diane Alge

Have you reviewed Perricone MD vitamin C ester brightening serum?

xixi tan

Yesss vitamin c! Just brought my timeless vitamin C serum! Unfortunately i couldnt get Dr Brenner's one in my country and they only ship it in USA i think ? from your previous video, you mentioned that Dr Brenner's has a better brightening effect compared to Timeless's but with almost the same formula but Timeless having a better packaging and (better stability and shelf life leading to better effectiveness?) as well as the most stable form of vitamin E as compared to Dr Brenner's one, i wonder why does Dr Brenner's have a better brightening effect? Something in Dr Brenner's formula? Hmmm

Lisa G

Do you know if its ok to use vitamin c at night with retin a?
Love your videos. Thanks for all the info you share

Banu Shifnas

Hi please do a review on geek and gorgeous vitamin c

trish pugelli

do you like the derma e vitamin c? i am in need for an affordable l-ascorbic acid vit c.. can you reccomend if you dont like the derma e?

Alicia Brooks

My favorite is THD love it ? I use Sunday Riley vitamin c. My pigmentation is going away I use the whole line. I tried L-acorbic Vitamin c with Ferulic drunk elephant didnt do anything to my skin compare to the THD is more gentler and u see more results is over rated with L-acorbic also can be drying

Adam H

I get that this a week old, but I have questions and every blog on google has its own version. I trust your opinion, so here goes. Hopefully you respond.
In dealing with Vitamin C, do you really wait 30 minutes after cleansing, then apply vitamin C, then wait another 30 minutes, then apply BHA leave on treatment, then wait another 30 minutes, etc...? No one has time for that and a lot of youtubers, blogs etc are stating that wait times are important for any AHA/BHA/Vitamin C product. Even if using only one, no one really has time for a 40 minute skincare routine. You review A LOT of vit C serums so I would think you'd be well equipped to answer this question. For reference, I usually use Krave Beauty cleanser, then follow with Dr Brenner C, leave on BHA treatment and a moisturizer, usually First Aid Beauty. Are wait times all that important when combining acids?

Carrie Mroczkowski

Amazing info. The Allies still has a place in my heart, lol. I really appreciate all of the research that you do!
Thanks so much, girlie??

Sandra B.

I'm so glad I stumbled upon your channel. Straight to the point with clear, concise info in a way that's easy to comprehend, as details about skincare ingredients can be confusing. You also have very lovely, glowing skin.

Loraine Mcgillivray

Hi I really struggle with L ascorbic acid due to the ph. I have hypersensitive rosacea and eczema prone skin which hates low ph products, including AHA's and LAA. I have used some of the derivatives without this issue ie burning, stinging and increased flushing. I do plan on trying the GOW C deep serum (ATIP as shortened in this video). This is the derivative talked about in the super expensive truth treatment and revision serum, but at a much more affordable price point. I've never as yet found a vitamin c product I really love for my skin, but there are hundreds i haven't as yet tried obviously. There are many many many antioxidants apart from vitamin c, many of which are much more gentle on the skin. I like licorice and azelaic acid for brightening and both are very soothing to the skin. I also like tea in various varieties and lotus for gentle brightening. High strength L ascorbic acid can be very irritating (which can result in worsening pigmentation from the inflammatory process), so it's not suitable for everyone. The derivatives i have tried and tolerated haven't given me huge brightening results tbh, but more research is definately needed. This was really interesting though, so many thanks and best wishes.

Krypton Quero

Sarah's looking amazing! Have you tried Geek & Gorgeous Vitamin C and Stratia Vitamin C? Please review Stratia products!

Love your reviews as always! ?

Daniel Asher Saville

Your skin looks glowy and so smooth . I think you suffer from the same issue as me pigmentation . Each winter I go onto Obagi Nuderm the one with Hydroquinone and Tretinoin for 4-5 months . You will be so stunned at the difference it makes to your skin and the anti ageing benefits it has . After I finish a course of it I’m back to my regular all kinds . I think you will be amazed and I know we would all follow you on the journey . Your very beautiful ! Time to tell that pigment to F off :) lots of love

Freedom Life

Ooo this is another video I requested months ago ? or maybe I just suggested it I don't remember lol

Makeupswatch Fan

Great video ?? Taking notes??


Love this breakdown! So elaborate and informative. Thank you so much for sharing that ❤️

Greta B

I really want to incorporate vitamin c in my routine but I have no idea where to start. A couple years ago I tried the drunk elephant one and I liked it but that’s a lot of money...I think I could spend no more than 40€ on a serum. Also I live in Italy so many products aren’t accessible to me. Do you guys have any recs? For reference I have combo skin and it’s not sensitive


I’ve had my bottle of Timeless C for 5 months & it’s still good. Also, I find I can get good results from just using it 3 or 4 times a week. I have to be careful not to use AHA’s or BHA’s right after C or I’ll be irritation station! ?

Kayla Byers

Hey, what’s your opinion on the body shops’s Vitamin C microdermabrasion scrub?

Karla Warsaw

It's all Sarah, rant videos, informative videos we love them all!



Rebecca Pinto

Great video and very informative. Still looking for my HG. My main thing is the holy trinity: ascorbic acid, vit e and ferulic. I didn’t see an effect from timeless, and currently using PC’s C15 booster. Was thinking of trying out geek and gorgeous. I’m from the UK so can’t get Maelove or DRMTLGY, which I would love to try out. I was also thinking of DE, but not after your comment in the video. Love catching up with skin care journey through your videos. Take care.

Annika Knoche

Great video! What do you think about TO Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in vitamin F and the Summer Fridays CC me serum?

Sophie Young

Thanks for sharing this! Your skin is glowing ? also did you hear about this vitamin C derivative: Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract? I see it being used a lot in Korean skincare, like in the jumiso vitamin c serum and the iunik propolis vitamin synergy serum...

Lola M.

Great video! What about THD (tetrahexydecyl) acetate? If you could Please touch on this. ?

Henrietta Simon

Thanks for the vitamin C review.?

Pajama Mama

Terrific video! I'm very interested in THD and its use at the same time as copper peptides. Specifically my question is regarding the ordinary tetraisopalmitate in vitamin F product. I discovered an article online that says it's not the same vitamin C as the THD and that left me confused. Can you verify that this is the same thing and that we can use that ordinary product TIP/vit F with the ordinary copper Buffet? Thank you so much!

Freedom Life

I think the summary of this video is that ascorbic acid is still king and that the best derivatives are Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and ascorbyl glucoside, the rest are probably not even worth it oh and I nominate retinoids! Cause they keep making new ones


Dr. Dray doesn't use Vitamin C in her skincare, nor does she advocate for her subscribers to use it. She says because it's so unstable, it's really not worth the money spent.
I'm debating on buying Timeless Vitamin C. But I've been so indoctrined to keep a simple skincare routine; cleanser, moisturizer, SPF 50, and tretinoin at night.
I love the simplicity of my routine so I don't know if I should add something that may or may not help me at all.

Michelle Daryanani

such great educated research you did for us. thank you

Sophia Gothistry

I love how you go into the different types of vitamin C there are in products! Nobody ever does that. Thanks as always.

Have you ever ordered off the Cosrx international website?? I want their new Dual Snail Essence, but haven’t heard anybody’s experience from it. I know it will take a while being shipped from Korea, but not sure about anything else cause I’ve never shipped from Korea to US before.

Hanne Overgaard

Hello gorgeous! I'm loving the eyeshadow ♥️ My go to vit C is the powder version (LAA). I know my skin can handle it and I know it's as active as possible!
I think all the criticism on dyi powders lately are excessive and maybe brands and formulaters feel threatened by costumers taking things into their own hands (and are saving some money). What do you think?


It's L-AsCorbic acid.? I bought Dr. Brennan's based on your recommendations. I am still deciding if I like it better than the one I've been using for a few years now. I would love for you to do a review since it contains the same ingredients but I'm surprised it's not more popular. I think it was the first Skinceuticals dupe. It's called Serumtology. One thing I can swear by is the instant brightening effect... I'm not really seeing that with Dr. Brenner's. Please do a review ??



AJ Daughe

Thank you for this video! I needed the help

Shaneela Rahman

I'm experiencing extreme hair fall ever since the pandemic started. ??? Any idea why? ???

I'rfan Akmal

I hope you will add timestamps for this video cause I'm just scrolling for ingredients of vit c serums and searching for your explanation abt them.

Carolyn Smith

I realize Timeless has a wonderful reputation and following but it has done absolutely nothing for me! I am so disappointed. I am not sure what to try next. I also have a sample of the U Beauty that you so dislike and it has made more difference in my skin than anything else other than snail mucin. I swear by my Cosrx!!

Pamela Veliz

I wish that vitamin c serums come with an expiration date

Banu Shifnas

And dr sambunting brightly and nightly serums please



Lyn Wilhelm

Hi Sarah. I am loving the Timeless Vitamin C. I have just added The Ordinary Buffet + Copper peptides to my routine but heard somewhere that these two cannot be used together ??‍♀️. I would really appreciate your advice on this please. ??


I stick to L-Ascorbic acid. I haven't actually tried many but Geek & Gorgeous is the one I stuck with. The dropper bottle generally isn't ideal but I find that it doesn't oxidize if it is kept in the fridge. I see some people receive CE Ferulic from Skinceuticals and it is already yellow by the time it reaches them but G&G has only turned yellow on me after over a month out of the fridge - in the fridge it stayed fresh until it was empty


I can’t use L-ascorbic acid, too irritating to me skin. I enjoy using the Truth Treatment C serum (THD).

Meruem Schwarzenegger

You really speak from unstress to stressed tone hahaha ? Cute tho lol

Kathleen Klimek

Really informative! I bought the Drunk Elephant Serum. I didn’t know what to expect. I had one age spot under my eye and it went away quickly after using it. I’ve purchased several bottles since then. It does oxidize though and since it’s so expensive I just keep using it. Is this hurting my skin? Am I wasting my time?

Freedom Life

Dermalogica uses or at least used to use MAP, I am not sure if they discontinued the product but maybe they have it in other products

Joan Smith

U loosing weight ? Ur face looks thinner .. ur beautiful ❤️❤️

Andrea Hauser

What about vitamin C powder?? Does it work? True Botanicals makes a vitamin C powder that you "activate" with water... is that BS?!

Freedom Life

If the ascorbic acid is encapsulated, the pH of the base formula doesn't matter actually, that's what Naturium and La Roche Posay do with their vitamin c products

Robin L

I read below Geek & Gorgeous is popular. I have been using Timeless vitamin C. I'm always looking for something similar but the pump container is a big win!

Iliyana Naydenova

Great video I love Vit C