I use a lot of vintage
I use a lot of vintage safety razors and I get a lot of questions about how I clean them and get them ready for shaving. Here's a video explaining my process for disinfecting and cleaning a vintage safety razor. Others may have their own process for cleaning, but this is my technique and I've never had a problem.
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That sink is sick!! Looks like straight copper
hello my friend..if i use a cheap safety razor wont i have a good result? thank you
Wouldn’t want to clean my vintage Gillette’s that way and I cleaned a lot of razors, I have 70 vintage Gillette’s. Sometimes the boiling water can dull or stain the vintage nickel or gold plating. I just buy 99% alcohol and soak about 2 to 3 minute then put into my Barbicide jar for about 5 minutes rinse and then a few drops of lubricant in the normal places and you’re golden. Do do on occasion use an old toothbrush and some antibacterial soap to scrub off the soap scum them I do the other steps. Just my way and I’m sure other collectors do different than I do. Whatever works. But I always live your videos Sinatra, have a great weekend.????. I ordered one of those white handled slim twist made in England razors the other day off EBay when you posted your video of yours. Should be here Monday. And I love the Beatles too.
If you really want to clean heavy soap scum build up off a nickel or chrome plated razor use a brass wire brush and liquid dish soap. Brass is softer than nickel and chrome and should not scratch it. However it may revel plating loss from having heavy soap scum build up for over 50 years. Do Not do this to a Black Beauty, Black Handle Super Speed or any Gold Plated Razor.
Save time and money by adding some pasta to the boiling water.
In this video I'll be
In this video I'll be restoring an old rusty straight razor. In my last razor video the handle probably isn't as good as I can do but I'ts still my second watched video at the moment so I felt like I had to make another one with handle that sticks with the original design. (psst. the intro is a satire...)
I started by disassembly and rust removal. I used MC-51 rust remover overnight. After that the blade was easy to clean. This was followed by hours of sanding to remove some of the pitting from the blade. I think, when doing something like this you should try to find the balance of not removing too much material, as the blade is already very thin and still removing at least some of the pitting. After the sanding I evened edge on a diamond sharpening "stone" (actually thin plate https://amzn.to/2Xkfh0F). Then I polished the blade with metal polish compond and dremel with wool felt bits (https://amzn.to/2GpOpqk & https://amzn.to/2XhO1zO) and stropped in on 12 000 grit Micro-mesh pad someone recommended for me in the comments (https://amzn.to/2ICDr2i). Later I'll use a leather strop when needed. Abrasive stropping is not necessary in when using a razor but think it makes a good finish in this case.
I drew the design of the original handle on piece of walnut and cut it to shape on bandsaw. Then a shaped it a bit more on a belt sander and drilled holes for my pins. Only after this I split the handle in two halves to keep them as identical as possible. then I shaped the inside of the scales. the handle needed to fit between the scales. I also made a wedge for the other end of the handle.
I made a test vacuum chamber from glass jar and hoped it will hold up for the test and not crack. I merely added a tube to the lid and sealed it with silicone. I used cheap but powerfull vacuum pump I found on ebay. First time I tried it but it seemed to be well worth the money. Typically the ones that are not only the motor could cost easily over $100. You just need to figure out the electrics yourself. I used just a test set up with the electronics and I will do proper connections now that I have tested it works well.
The vacuum chamber was filled with Borma Wachs Holzhärter (https://amzn.to/2DeY9So) Which is a wood hardener typically applied to rotten wood surfaces etc. But I figured it should work similarly to cactus juice. Cactus juice would have been insanely expensive to ship (maybe $50 or more for just shipping) and I couldn't find anything similar locally. I submerged the parts in wood hardener and slowly pulled a vacuum in the chamer and waited for the bubbling to stop (wood had no air left). Then I let the air back in and the wood is left with vacuum which will then start pulling the wood hardener in. this could take an hour or so. You can see it worked because the wedge I used did not float after the process. The product I use will dry in room temperature unlike Cactus juice. But since the pieces were filled with it I wanted to speed up the drying by placing them on a radiator.
After parts had dried I assembled the handle using brass pin set I found from from ebay. I also put washers between blade and scales to allow better movement for the blade.
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SOME OF MY TOOLS:
RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV
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Well, you were able to use an axe like a knife, meaning it is very sharp. I'm not going to mess with you
I reckon the handle from the previous video looked great, don’t listen to the haters mate!
Not gonna lie, that handle looks mighty fine!
Hot Damn!! Now I know what a ball-peen hammer is used for.
And as a guy who actually shaves with straight razors (after an 'interesting' learning curve), good on you!
Ps; they're used to shave your face, not your forearm.
"For legal reasons, that's a joke."
Broken straight razor
Broken straight razor restoration from 1963. Today I restore a vintage razor from Russia from year 1963. The blade and the handle are both broken. But I will fix it and make this jewel beautiful and really sharp again.
This straight razor comes from a friend who owns an antique store here in Europe. He knows that I like these kinds of restorations, so he didn’t hesitate to send it to me.
With this straight razor it’s straight forward. I de-mounted the handle and removed the rust with 12% vinegar. I started by removing the broken part of the bade there after I hand grinded the blade with grit 1000/1500. After that I polished the blade with my Dremel 3000. As compound I used ultra-cut/ultra-gloss. I did choose to Nickel plate the blade to protect it from rust in the future. For the handle I used some very hard dark wood from Africa. And Finally I sharpened the razor on water stone grit 400/1000/3000/8000 and finished it on a leather strap.
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Best wishes Martin
No amigo elegimos la misma pieza de madera
Просто другой брусок никак не смотрелся бы.
WTF I CHOSE THAT ONE TOO, MANN YOU ARE ON SOME OTHER LEVEL
Залипательные видео у мужика! За субтитры на русском языке отдельное спасибо!